- Trupply offers the broadest line of Dresser Couplings, including style 38, style 40, insulating, reducing and transition types.
- Standard Dresser AL-CLAD™ epoxy coatings offer optimum protection against corrosive soil, aggressive water, brine, brackish water, most acids, alkalies, oil, chemical particulates and gases.
- Sizes range from 3/8” through 40” to cover every application including high temperature and abrasion.
- Dresser couplings are fast and easy to install with any size pipe or tubing.
- Wide temperature range from -20°F to +1200°F, with pressure ratings up to 1500 psi.
- Available in rugged welded steel construction, stainless or carbon steel, titanium, monel or other alloys for special applications.
- Use a Dresser style coupling and your pipeline joint is non-rigid, accepting expansion, contraction, vibration and line deflection.
- Special elastomer formulations are provided custom-matched to specific fluid process or application requirements.
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The Basic Working Principle of Dresser Bolted Coupling
The Dresser style 38 & style 40 style bolted coupling consists of one cylindrical middle ring, two follower rings, two resilient gaskets of special Dresser compound, and a set of steel trackhead bolts. The middle ring has a conical flare at each end to receive the wedge portion of the gaskets. The follower rings confine the outer ends of the gaskets. As the nuts are tightened, the bolts draw the follower rings toward each other, compressing the gaskets in the spaces formed by follower rings, middle ring flares and pipe surface thus producing a flexible, leak-proof seal on the pipe joint.
Dresser Coupling Installation Guide
Hello. This is a style 38 Dresser coupling. Bolted coupling, they make style 38s and the style 40s, the 40s are a longer version starting at 1/2 inch and go up as large as 108 inch that I’m aware of. They might can make them larger, you would have to apply to Dresser to find out, that’s up to them. A Dresser coupling is used to join two pieces of pipe. Here’s one already put together, a 2 inch with a 2 inch pipe joining it. The pipe doesn’t meet in the middle, you don’t want it meeting in the middle, you want a small gap in there.
A Dresser coupling comes with the following components: you have two followers, bolts and nuts, two gaskets, and a middle ring. These all work together to seal pipe to stop you leak, join the pipe together, whatever you’re trying to do. Normally, you would use a Dresser coupling because you don’t want to thread the pipe, maybe you don’t want to flange the pipe, maybe you need access to something so you can take the coupling apart, have access to the line for whatever you need to do, to clean that out, to drain it, whatever. Perhaps the pipe is not quite lined up perfectly so you can’t thread it or flange it, you need to use a Dresser coupling. The main thing to remember, though, with the Dresser coupling, the system has to be properly anchored. You do not want the pipe to pull out and the Dresser coupling will not keep the pipe from pulling out. It does have to be properly anchored within the system.
The general Dresser couplings are made of steel with a BUNA S gasket, they can offer other gaskets, they have BUNA N, Butyl, EPDM, Viton and they even have a high temp corded glass gasket that can go all the way up to 1200°F. The standard BUNA gaskets go to about 200° Fahrenheit. For natural gas applications, you would want an armored gasket, this has a small brass tip in the gasket, it allows metal to metal contact all the way through the system. That’s what you use when you have natural gas.
Let me show you briefly how you put it together. It’s very simple, follow the instructions. A little instruction tag comes with every Dresser coupling you buy. To put it together, simply measure the length of the middle ring, just the middle ring, this one is 5 inches long. You’d half the middle ring, that’s 2 ½ inches, you add 2 inches to that so it’s 4 ½ inches. Fortunately, this pipe is already marked at 4 ½ inches. This way, when it goes in, you then adjust the coupling so that it is between the two markings. The other thing you need to do is to make sure that your pipe is clean of any rust or scale, anything that would cause the gasket not to seal properly. The other thing you want to do, a little soapy water will help the gasket move over the pipe when you put the coupling on. Just slide the gasket in, have your coupling there, a little soap, a little water to lubricate the other end of the pipe. Again, slide that in, put the middle ring in, put the pipe in the middle ring. If they are too close together, adjust your gasketing a little bit till you have the coupling. Tighten up the bolts, and again, finger tight until you can get things adjusted and then a torque wrench, which, as I said, we don’t have. Use a torque wrench. Don’t think doing this finger tight until the leak stops is going to solve the problem. It will not. You have that, you tighten it up to the recommended torque as on the instructions that are attached to each one and your seal is done. That’s the end of your Dresser coupling already put in. You can walk away and leave it.